FAQs

UNIT DOES NOT RUN:

1. Check the battery and connections.

2. Unplug the 2-prong motor connector at the relay control and connect your motor directly to the battery with jumper wires [you will have to make your own, possibly with alligator clips].  If the unit does not run, replace the motor.

3. If the motor tests OK, the problem is in the relay control or the switch assembly.

UNIT RUNS BUT THE RELAY CONTROL OR SWITCH IS BAD:

1. Unplug the 3 prong plug coming out of the relay control.

2. Jump from red to green for one direction and red to blue for the reverse direction.

3. If the unit does not run or runs only one direction, the problem is in the relay control. Replace relay control.

4. If the unit runs in both direction, the problem is the switch assembly.  Replace the switch assembly.

WIRELESS REMOTE TROUBLESHOOTING

Weak Signal:

1. Battery may be low. To replace the battery, remove the screw on the back of the transmitter. Remove the back cover carefully, noticing how the rubber membrane is seated in the case. Remove and replace the battery. Re-install back cover, making sure that the rubber membrane is seated in the case.

Install screw and carefully tighten. Do not overt tighten. Dispose of old battery properly. During periods of long inactivity, it is recommended to remove the battery.

2. Receiver is obstructed. Move receiver in a direct line with the transmitter. Make sure the antenna is not obstructed.

3. Programming the transmitter to the receiver:

A.  Disconnect power to receiver (either positive or negative terminal).

B.  Enable the transmitter by pressing the power button, the LED will flash twice.

C.  Hold down either directional button on the transmitter.

D.  While holding down button connect power for about one second.

E. You should hear a relay on the receiver “click.”

F. Release button and fully reconnect power

G. Your transmitter is now programmed to the receiver.

We now have promotional stickers available.  Please contact us with your name and address, along with how you plan to display your Panther sticker.

Our technicians can generally repair any Panther Marine product, depending on the availability of parts.  Please be advised that designs change over the years, and older units may not be able to be repaired due to a lack of parts. 

Please contact us describing what needs to be repaired, and consider including some pictures to help us troubleshoot your issue. In some cases, you will be just as well off simply ordering replacement parts from our Parts Shop.

Please contact us to get replacement installation/owner’s manuals.

Additional parts are available by calling or contacting us. While the parts shown on the Parts Shop of the website are the ones most frequently needed for our products, all the parts available are not shown. 

Be prepared to provide which model you need parts for, and sending us pictures can be very helpful in ensuring that you get the proper parts.

Panther Marine Products can be shipped overseas. Please contact us for shipping prices.

Go to our outbound motor brackets page and look for your bracket.  The hole pattern is located with that bracket.

Contact us and we should be able to provide you with the proper size screws.  Be sure to include the Panther Safe-Skeg part number and your mailing address.

It is possible that one of the Safe-Skegs we have in stock will fit your motor. Please review the Safe-Skeg drawings on the website for measurements. Compare the measurements on the drawings to your skeg. If you are having difficulty with this, please contact Customer Service.  Be sure to have accurate measurements of your skeg.

Replacement keys are available, but you must have the key code to purchase replacement keys. The key code is a five-digit numbered tag that was part of your original key set. If you do not have this key code, we will not be able to replace your keys.

1)     At the beginning of each season, grease the actuator with marine grease.  The grease zerk is located on the gear house casing that the motor is attached to.  Depending on usage, it may be necessary to add 3-4 pumps of grease in mid-season.  DO NOT PUT MORE THAN 4 PUMPS OF GREASE IN AT ANY TIME.

2)     Before storage, remove the set screw from the actuator and spray fogging oil into the cylinder.  This set screw is located on the long outer cylinder.  Replace the fitting by applying RTV to the threads and tighten securely.

It is likely that the screw inside the Actuator is broken. It is not possible to repair an actuator, but a new one can be ordered here.  You will need to find the one that fits your specific bracket.

This is a “breather tube”, and it must be installed upright inside the engine cowling in a manner that prevents water from getting inside of it.

The 85-B203MAR has an internal jaw width of 4 3/8 inches and on overall length of 7 7/8 inches. The 85-B203STN has an internal jaw width of 3 15/16 inches and an overall length of 8 13/16 inches

No. This will void the warranty.

10.125 inches (25.7175 cm)

No. Other motors may seem similar but they are not the same. 

Johnson manufactured some industrial engines that were slightly different; the tips of the yoke need to be ground down about 1/8″ to relieve interference.

8 inches (20.32 cm). The height is adjustable, and can be either 12” or 19.25”.

Yes, however we strongly recommend that our Saltwater Anode Kit 55-9000 be used with all brackets in saltwater.

NOTE: Saltwater may discolour a bracket over time, but will not harm it

The electrolysis that occurs in water with the electric motor on the actuator will attack the anode before it etches the bracket. The anode can be replaced once it has deteriorated, extending the life of the bracket.

15 inches (38.1 cm)

This bracket requires full transom support.

All Electro steer motors have a thermal cut off switch that will disconnect the motor when the temperature reaches 115° C (239° F). It will reconnect the motor at 95° C (203° F).

The causes of a motor overheating could be:

• The drive needs to be lubricated
• The drive rod is binding on something
• The left or right button is continuing to be pushed after the motor has reach its maximum left or right position
• Continuous use against a strong current or wind
• It is a very hot day.

On the black T4 and T5, putting a white cover over the case to reflect the sunlight can help.

Tilt bars are usually on small engines under 9 hp. You should use Electro Steer Model 100 for freshwater. Or Electro Steer Model 101 for saltwater.

Threaded tilt tubes are very common on 9 hp and above, although some 8 hp also have threaded tilt tubes. In these cases you can use any Electro Steer that fits your install situation.

• T-4 uses a gear bar moving back and forth to turn engine and extends out from engine 9″ (22.9 cm) on one side of the kicker motor and 14” (35.6 cm) on the other side of the kicker motor
• T-5 uses a spool of Stainless Steel cable to turn engine and extends out from engine only 4″ (10.16 cm) on one side of the kicker motor and 14” (35.6 cm) on the other side of the kicker motor

The rod can be re-bent in any direction to relieve interference. This will be true with either transom mount or engine mount units.

You may also want to try our “Extension Coupling Assembly Kit” to extend the ball stud assembly out an additional 1 1/8″.  Go here for either Saltwater or Freshwater.

Panther Marine Products sells a “Tilt Tube Nut Extension.” This will replace the original tilt tube nut that comes with the T4. It gives an additional 1 1/2” of tilt tube. Go here to order. At this time this solution will not work for the T5.

The Panther Electrosteer 100 and 101 will turn your engine about 90 degrees. If your unit turns less than that, it is likely that your unit needs to be mounted on your transom right or left about 1 to 2 inches. (2.54 or 5.08 cm)

Replace the A-23 battery and reprogram unit. See owners manual if new battery does not correct problem, may need new fob or relay.

It is possible that the unit was not installed properly at the boat factory, and this has allowed water to seep in through the breather tube.  A new actuator and breather tube will need to be installed. For more information on actuators, see the section above.

All Auxiliary brackets need to have the engine installed on them before they can be moved. Springs are too strong to move bracket without engine weight.

The 55-0435 is a fixed manual bracket. The 55-0035 is identical except it is motorized. The 55-0435 can be converted to 55-0035, by adding an actuator (purchased separately). See Install Manual for more info.

The engine is creating too much pressure on the V-Block. Just rest the engine in the V and do not apply any excessive pressure with your engine. Replacement parts can be ordered here. If you are within the warranty period we may be able to just send you a replacement. Contact us a picture of the damaged V-Block, your receipt, and your address.

The rod can be re-bent in a manner that will relieve the interference. You may also want to try our “Extension Coupling Assembly Kit” to extend the ball stud assembly out an additional 1 1/8″. Go here for either the Saltwater or Freshwater unit.